The kimono with narrow sleeves was called kosode in the Pre-Modern Era and, around the beginning of the Edo Era (1615 – 1868), it became the basic clothing for women of every strata. The kosode originates from the undergarments used in the Heian Period (794 – 1185) and, little by little, it became the main vest in the 15th century. The female belt (obi), once a narrow strip tied on the waist, has evolved into a wide band of brocade at the end of the 18th century and beginning of the 19th. To match with the new obi, the kosode fabric was padded with plaid, stripes or designs with small repeated ornaments through the fabric. Patterns concentrated at the ends of the sleeves or skirts were also common.
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Source: What People Wore When, by Melissa Leventon / my scans.